O W N E R S H I P   G U I D E   -   Y O U ' R E   N O T   A L O N E . . .
Note: Everything described here is based on my own experiences. I will not be responsible for any potential damage of you or your car. I also assume a certain
level of experience - if you've never done any major work before on your 605, think about getting a professional to do it for you, or to teach you how to do it.

  • The engines mounts are a weak spot of the 605 with ZPJ/ZPJ4 V6 engines. If your car suffers from annoying vibrations, like mine did, chances are high that those mounts are shot. The V6 has four: (1) and (2) top right of the engine block, (3) down right between alternator and oilpan, and (4) left above the gearbox. I had to change all of them, as really all were gone...
    Overview: Engine mounting (1) gets attached to no. (2). There is another bush between (1) and the body, but this never fails.
    Replacing mount (4) is straightforward. Jack up gearbox, push all cables away, remove old mount, put in the new one, adjust it by hand, then tighten screws of no. (4) to body with 30Nm.
    If you're lucky, the rubber bushings for (1) and (3) are available as a single item, if not, prepare to splash out more money on the bushes already fitted to the aluminium brackets. Shown above is no (1), the arrows pointing to the cracks separating the bush from the bracket, resulting in almost no damping, hence the vibrations.
    The engine mount (2), which becomes attched to no. (1), is hydraulically damped. Mine had cracked, spilling all it's oil (see arrow), rendering it useless (after changing all engine mounts, as described here, the vibrations were gone). The new mounting (right) went in without any problems.
    I had to buy mount (1) as a complete item. The new part is clearly visible. After changing all engine mountings / bushes, take great care to positioning the engine correctly. The dimension to install (2) needs to be checked (see photo below left). I used three hydraulic jacks, two under the engine, one under the gearbox. Also no. (2) is adjustable, like the no. (4).
    Dimension between mount (2) and body must be 201mm. Tighten nuts to body with 30Nm, the central nut to mount no. (1) with 45Nm. The four nuts which bolt no. (1) down on the engine block need 15Nm.
    I purchased no. (3), see picture top right, as a bush only. The procedure to change it is the following:
    Remove complete bracket of (3) from car after jacking up the engine, destroy old bush to get it out, then clean bracket with emery paper, and file a champfer on one side. Apply anaerobe glue supplied with the bush. Use a big (!) press to overcome the almost 2mm overlap between bush and bracket. Press from champfered side. Be careful to appy pressure only to the hard plastic outer ring of the bush, otherwise you'll destroy it!
      Good luck!

    My car was fitted with a gutmann Royal Look body kit from new. Unfortunately, the front spoiler was cracked and had been badly repaired.
    As the gutmann kit is extremely rare, I changed it for a Musketier front spoiler, which not only looks close to the original one, but allowes a better air flow. Pictured above, the Musketier spoiler is trial fitted
    The spoiler is attached by just 7 screws: Two in each wheel arch, and three in the front air inlet. After I had mine professionally sprayed, I screwed it back on, using a small amount of body sealant. I love the looks...

    Water thermostat, front & rear suspension overhaul